This was my ride over spring break. I cleared over 350 yards of fence row.

From Sunday afternoon until Thursday night and there wasn’t anyone happier in the world (Friday morning) on spring break at a beach, on a yacht, skiing, or whatever than me, not having to work on that hairy bitch.

I bought a 15 gallon sprayer and laid down some high falutin roundup so I won’t ever have to do that shit again and its like the surface of mars.

I also popped the fence and put a gate in so I can just dump my horses out late at night if I have to.
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Who knows about 3 point rototillers?

I'm going to buy one soon, 5-6' to put behind a 45h tractor.
I have a 2 bottom plow and am going to add the tiller for personal use and probably till gardens and food plots for some $.

I'm interested in preferred makes/models...to offset or not to offset and shear pins or the slip clutch.
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I have a 6 foot reverse cut LandPride

I run it on a 4730 John Deere...about 55 HP

Its a digger but it takes time...they all do. And they wont till sod into a 8 in deep tilled patch in one pass.. It takes a while.

I like the reverse tines for food plots because it will throw rocks or old hidden stumps forward.

I typically use it in my veg garden for fall tillage only and my Try built for spring tillage dur=e to being able to run in moister soils with the old troy.

They represent tractor horsepower in my mind too low...they take serious HP when in deep cutting or clay soils...I can nearly stall mine.
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Wow!
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Do you all know that dandelions, henbit (purple flower) and clover are some of the first nectar available for bees? Do you also know that some species of bees have been placed on the endangered list?
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I have heard about the bumble bee problem due to so much herbicide being used.

We just returned from an 11 day trip to the east coast and the henbit had gone crazy.

It was really nice to see a few big old fat bumble bees though. Now they can just move on to my fruit trees since I have been working on removing the weeds.
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This is why we're doing what we can to help and planting that bee garden a few posts up. Everything we planted is supposedly stuff bees love. And most of our veggie garden is great for bees.
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I was going to tell you that if one of those plants doesn't work out. I had a landlord plant a plant of alfalfa and it worked pretty decent as an ornamental. You just have to cut it down in the fall or spring. And it will get the pollinators rolling.
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I'll have 3 hives going by the end of the month.
I will also be helping grab some swarms and maybe...MAYBE...some cutouts.
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I am curious about makes and models ...which are reliable and tough, which if the systems I'd like better the slip clutch or sheer pins....I guess , interested in opinions on forward turn versus reverse turn tines....

Best product for price. I know land pride are made in Kansas.
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I don't have much info on brands. Take a look at the gear box and frame. I don't know if any of them have mounts for suitcase weights, but they might be helpful depending on soil type.

Make sure you pay attention to the the class of hitch then buy a quick coupler. It doesn't matter how much you think you don't need a quick coupler, buy a quick coupler.

Slip clutches will be better IMO. You'll hate it when you have to rebuild it, but it will hold down more power and be easier on your gearbox if it slips. Just make sure you loosen it after the season is over.

TYPICALLY (I've never run a 3 point model) the reverse spinning blades dig better but leave the seedbed rougher. Forward spinning won't dig much but the seedbed will be a dream. If you could get a reversing transmission that would be superior but I don't know if that's available. With my walk behind it works really well to go over in reverse then forward.

As far as priorities I'd go:
Gearbox
Hitch/Frame
Tines

Slip clutch

Features etc
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All excellent points. The cheap-o tillers will have small weak gearboxes made in China. Thats your KeenKutter or Countrymark or those sorts. Even the Deere is made with a China made gearbox.

I would expect all to have a slip clutch built into and part of the PTO Shaft but I may be wrong. They are a must have. Once you adjust it and burn it in a couple times its a charm

If you do have a quick attach 3point like the Deere iMatch, make sure the tiller is compatible. Not all are. Even with the imatch the best thing you will ever do is build a wooden frame with heavy duty casters to set it on when you unhook and store it. It weighs an ass ton and with the casters you back in roll it over lower the hitch and hook up. Otherwise nothing on this earth will make you cuss more than hooking u a 3 point and hooking up your PTO
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RE: Quick connect: 3 points are categoy 1, 2, 3, 4. Here are the measurements.

http://www.tractordata.com/articles/...hreepoint.html

I don't run much of the little stuff, but you might be right about building a stand, but the big stuff works pretty good with a quick connect. The smaller stuff might well be more difficult.
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Mine is cat 2

Ive runthe big stuff like you. But smaller is a pain inthe ass. If its not level and you are not agreatoperatoritsucks
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You live in the second flatest spot on the globe. Unhooking anything 3pt in Scott one has a 97.6% chance its damn near perfect level

Where I am we have 0% of level. Thus why I store the tiller on concrete under cover. I do agree, the iMatch hooking up the brush hog is pure tits compared to the old days
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