Got an older home, built in 1965, with a basement washing machine hookup. The standpipe is galvanized steel going into a floor drain. It's mounted into the drain solidly. Started having problems with the pipe overflowing and I decided to take a look at it. The pipe is almost completely rusted away where it enters the drain.
I'm hopeful although not confident that the pipe can be replaced without having to tear up the concrete. Can't see if it screws into the drain opening. It looks like it just goes into the center of the drain.
Originally Posted by FlaChief58:
It's hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your drain piping may just be shoved down the floor drain (not screwed in). If so, take a Sawzall and cut the pipe above the corroded area and it should come out. If it is screwed in, the only way to get it out without busting up the floor is to cut the pipe above the corroded area, break off what you can, take the sawzall and make some relief cuts and peel it out of the drain. Pipewrenches are useless on 50 year old corroded galvanized pipe.
Next, you'll want to make sure the floor drain isn't clogged by running some water through it. If it is, rod the line out. You can rent the machine at home depot. While you're there, buy a 2' piece of pvc and a fernco the size of your existing washer drain, should be 2", but could be 1 1/2". Once you're sure the floor drain is clear, cut the pvc to length and install using the Fernco.
Profit!
Thanks! I looked up Fernco, looks to be a rubber fitting for joining dissimilar pipes. Not sure what I would use it for. Yeah, I'm hopeful that the pipe comes out with not much trouble. I can move it by hand however I've been resisting the urge to just break it off. Probably can't help it at this point. The sawsall is a good idea, I was thinking of trying a chisel however cast iron is pretty brittle and my intent is to NOT break the existing drain.
The standpipe is 2 1/2" OD, 2" ID. At least it's a standard size I can get in PVC. Once I get the old pipe out and the drain cleared, what should I use to cement the PVC into the cast iron? Epoxy? Mount a strap on the wall for support? [Reply]
Originally Posted by crayzkirk:
Thanks! I looked up Fernco, looks to be a rubber fitting for joining dissimilar pipes. Not sure what I would use it for. Yeah, I'm hopeful that the pipe comes out with not much trouble. I can move it by hand however I've been resisting the urge to just break it off. Probably can't help it at this point. The sawsall is a good idea, I was thinking of trying a chisel however cast iron is pretty brittle and my intent is to NOT break the existing drain.
The Fernco is so you can extend the drain pipe so it'll reach the floor drain. If you don't, every time you run the washer, you'll have water all over the floor. If you plan on replacing the washer drain pipe with pvc, disregard what I just said [Reply]
I would just make sure the pipe is in the floor drain and secure it to the wall with straps. There's a p-trap on the floor drain so no sewer gas issues. If it backs up again in the future, you'll want easy access, so no concrete/epoxy etc. [Reply]
Originally Posted by srvy:
I have heard lots of bad things about bob hamilton plumbing. I dont know where you live but if it Northland KC I can recommend McGuire Plumbing or Greens Rod O Matic. I have used both and think highly. Kevin Green I grew up with his son is running the show now does good work. He does a lot of commercial also so that why I also mentioned McGuire if he is backlogged.
I need a decent plumber for future repair problems, right now I'm having a plumber that mainly installs dish washers from Menards do my basic plumbing fixes. But i don't have much confidence in him to be honest, even he said he just works on installs mostly. [Reply]
Originally Posted by srvy:
So did you get that POS pipe out and the washer draining again?
I don't think POS is a strong enough word. I think it's leaded in. I tried to get the clean out plug and ended up tearing the head off the brass plug. I've got the plug pretty much destroyed and it won't budge. The drain is right next to the basement wall so I have limited access.
I'm tempted to use heat to see if I can get the plug out. If I can do that, I might just put an threaded adapter in and a 45 degree to get it to vertical.
Precision plumbing, I've had good luck with them. They have a fleet of plain white trucks and are good with older homes. A bunch of experienced plumbers on staff that like to do more jobs rather then overcharge. They handle a lot of the sewer/ water line warranty shit for kcmo. [Reply]
Originally Posted by crayzkirk:
I don't think POS is a strong enough word. I think it's leaded in. I tried to get the clean out plug and ended up tearing the head off the brass plug. I've got the plug pretty much destroyed and it won't budge. The drain is right next to the basement wall so I have limited access.
I'm tempted to use heat to see if I can get the plug out. If I can do that, I might just put an threaded adapter in and a 45 degree to get it to vertical.
I'm just not good at plumbing I've tried to fix things myself and had to call the plumber to fix my failure. If I have to spend some cash on them then I guess that's the way it's going to be. [Reply]
Originally Posted by srvy:
Just be aware that could be methane gas pockets trapped in that drain line.
Yes, sewer gas was one of my concerns... The runs in an older house usually are horizontal. Not a lot of worry about accumulated methane. Especially from a non organic grey water feed.
I have destroyed 4 metal cutting blades...
The brass clean out is a real PITA... I mean, it should come out fairly easily? I mean, it's only 55 years old. [Reply]
