Originally Posted by KCUnited:
From what I've gathered the one with paint on it is the main power, the other 2 are travelers.
No bare wire in the box. From what I understand the box is grounded via a metal conduit, which may be a Chicago code thing. The house is brand new FWIW.
I just capped the ground wire from the dimmer switch and connected the others and it seems to work fine.
I'm open to any critique or feedback on that though as I've clearly never messed with electric at any level.
If the entire box is grounded your initial instincts are correct.
I am not an electrician, but I've completely rewired the houses I've owned over the years. I'm used to the standard plastic residential boxes, 8/10/12/14 gauge wire.
Somebody will know what they are looking at with the orange stuff. You should be fine, though. [Reply]
Thats an interesting code and definitely not how us hillbillies normally operate down here. You could probably connect the green wire to a screw in the back wall or corner of the box, if it's even there. But it would be a redundancy to the assumed box to switch connection your code allows for when you screw the switch to the box. [Reply]
Originally Posted by KCUnited:
New dimmer switch has 4 wires, but I only have 3 coming out of the box.
Feel I know how to connect the 3 but not seeing a ground wire coming out of the box to connect to the new switch.
Can I connect the ground wire to the green ground screw on the accompanying switch inside the box? If not, where do I go with the ground wire on the new switch?
That green screw on the switch is used to connect a ground wire to the metal box ground screw-hole in the back. Some metal boxes may have a green grounding clip or you can buy at hardware store.
Originally Posted by ghak99:
I see your metal conduit comment now.
Thats an interesting code and definitely not how us hillbillies normally operate down here. You could probably connect the green wire to a screw in the back wall or corner of the box, if it's even there. But it would be a redundancy to the assumed box to switch connection your code allows for when you screw the switch to the box.
I’ve tied new wire without conduit into old conduit wrapped wiring like this. The entire metal box is grounded so if you screw the ground from your new wire into the box, the ground will carry on to your switch and light. [Reply]
Originally Posted by KCUnited:
Screwed all the way in, nothing connecting to it. No green wire present. There were a couple white wires capped together but neither with a bare end coming out of the box.
The ground/bare wire might be hidden on the other side of the toggle switch. [Reply]
Originally Posted by srvy:
That green screw on the switch is used to connect a ground wire to the metal box ground screw-hole in the back. Some metal boxes may have a green grounding clip or you can buy at hardware store.
This picture shows the redundancy I was talking about. Note where the green wire originates from on the switch. When you screw the switch to the box with your metal screw you're doing the exact same thing as connecting the green wire to the copper wire and then the copper wire to the box. Of course, the paint and mud work or even moisture can reek havoc on the trust the screw connection requires.
This whole system also ASSUMES your small box conduit grounded system is properly grounded at the big box and that there is no stray voltage in the system or back feeding from a short somewhere in the closed system. Dairy farms and other livestock facilities prove time and time again that a conduit grounded system can do some weird shit. It normally reveals itself when the big box burns itself off the wall and the whole place shuts down. It's why I prefer the wire to actually go back to the bar in the box, even if it's just for my peace of mind. [Reply]
Originally Posted by ghak99:
This picture shows the redundancy I was talking about. Note where the green wire originates from on the switch. When you screw the switch to the box with your metal screw you're doing the exact same thing as connecting the green wire to the copper wire and then the copper wire to the box. Of course, the paint and mud work or even moisture can reek havoc on the trust the screw connection requires.
This whole system also ASSUMES your small box conduit grounded system is properly grounded at the big box and that there is no stray voltage in the system or back feeding from a short somewhere in the closed system. Dairy farms and other livestock facilities prove time and time again that a conduit grounded system can do some weird shit. It normally reveals itself when the big box burns itself off the wall and the whole place shuts down. It's why I prefer the wire to actually go back to the bar in the box, even if it's just for my peace of mind.
Yeah, I just chose that picture as an example of pigtail the ground with copper wire which is code in most areas.
The link I posted and describes checking with a volt ohmmeter to make sure your switch wall box is grounded. It also describes options if it's not. When in doubt seek an electrician for peace of mind. [Reply]
Originally Posted by srvy:
Yeah, I just chose that picture as an example of pigtail the ground with copper wire which is code in most areas.
The link I posted and describes checking with a volt ohmmeter to make sure your switch wall box is grounded. It also describes options if it's not. When in doubt seek an electrician for peace of mind.
Oh no, plug that bitch in and learn the hard way! Then grunt like a real CP manly man when you pull yourself up off the floor while checking to see if your nuts are still hanging where they're supposed to be. :-) [Reply]
For those that don't know use a volt ohmmeter and first check for voltage between the hot and neutral sockets. The gold screw on the switch is always hot and silver screw is neutral green is always ground, the small slot on a outlet is hot and large slot neutral. First check for voltage between hot and neutral then hot to ground, ground being metal wall box. If you have voltage that's a good indicator that you are grounded and ok to fasten ground wire to wall box.
Old houses with 2 prong wireing is always grounded at wall box. Modern home with 3 prong uses 3 wire cable one being ground. [Reply]
I am going to go out on a limb and say you have a solid metal conduit ground system so the box is the ground. There should be a lug on the back to run a strap to the switch or it will ground it'self. I would run the strap.
Originally Posted by KCUnited:
Reached out to the builder this morns who confirmed the box(es) is grounded
Originally Posted by FlaChief58:
You may be better off just replacing the whole fixture. I checked Amazon and couldn't find anything resembling what you have
Yeah, I've looked all over the Net and haven't found much. May just text the builder. They're less than 2 years old and in 5 different rooms. [Reply]
