It's a high end Samsung, but that's kind of like saying it's a high end Taurus.
I'll just be pissed if I spend 200 on the control and that isn't it....but I agree that's where I should probably start. It's s really simple swap out if that's the problem.
Originally Posted by Iowanian:
It's a high end Samsung, but that's kind of like saying it's a high end Taurus.
I'll just be pissed if I spend 200 on the control and that isn't it....but I agree that's where I should probably start. It's s really simple swap out if that's the problem.
Thanks for the input
Call a service repair and pay the extra $65 for the labor. Takes the guess work out of it. Or at least have them diagnose for you. [Reply]
FYI- I have a garage door opener about 1.5 years old. When I would get into the garage in the morning the light would be flashing for about every second. It would not show any codes. It would not open.
Had to manually open-pull the truck out- unplug it-plug it in and it would be ok for a few days. Then it was every day. Then many times a day.
Called Chamberlin- They said its the sensors. Sent me new sensors under warranty-did not solve the problem
Called Chamberlin-"its the wall button" I paid for a new wall button-did not solve the problem. (2 weeks)
Called Chamberlin- I said "send me a new unit or send someone out to fix it" They said "I will send you a new logic board" I said "For free and overnight it!!! *******" They did.
Finally, three weeks later- it seems to be fixed. I also have new sensors and a wall button that I am sure are fine. Mixed reviews for Chamberlin. If you cannot find anything wrong with your door opener-get a new logic board.
Originally Posted by Iowanian:
It's a high end Samsung, but that's kind of like saying it's a high end Taurus.
I'll just be pissed if I spend 200 on the control and that isn't it....but I agree that's where I should probably start. It's s really simple swap out if that's the problem.
Thanks for the input
Before you buy the panel check the drain hose. I had one that would nuke the cycle and wouldn't drain. Not saying it's related but it's a cheap check.
At least pour a bunch of water in there and make sure the drain gets it out. [Reply]
Ok ... I know this is a shot in the dark ... but this is a handyman thread, right, ... and we do have some very wise guys on here and yeah, I know, along with some "wise ackers."
Chainsaw question:
I inherited a Stihl 029 16" chainsaw when my son transfered to the "city up on the hill." We have 4 or 5 oak trees that are shading our garden. A couple of them are more than 2' in diameter. The 16" is not working properly and I think it is too small? I am thinking of hiring one of those guys who come around every so often and "do you have any trees/limbs that need cutting" to put the trees on the ground and I will work them up. Not going to pay thousands of $$$ for something I can do myself cheaper ... even buying a new saw will save money.
1. A Stihl would have the advantage of being a quality product (I think?) and I would know the location of the repair shop. But, I think it will be more expensive because only their repair shops sell them?
2. You guys have any recommendation? What to avoid? Brands to consider? Size of blade needed? Words of wisdom? Yeah, I could choose the "Gaz" option but this in not a poll, so ...
I'm not a lumberjack, but I DO have some flannel shirts with holes in them.
The saw I've had the longest is an Echo. It's been ok, but seems to run out of power when you need it. For me it comes down to how much you're going to use a tool, but when it comes to chainsaws, I'll spend the extra $100 and buy the Stihl or other higher quality saw.
Too many times if you're just trimming a tree, you're hanging in a precarious position and the last thing I want is a shitty saw when I'm trying not to fall.
The bar length should be determined by the size of the saw and what you're doing with it. for just working up firewood, I want a larger saw to drop and cut the trunk and a smaller saw for hacking away at limbs because of weight. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Manila-Chief:
Ok ... I know this is a shot in the dark ... but this is a handyman thread, right, ... and we do have some very wise guys on here and yeah, I know, along with some "wise ackers."
Chainsaw question:
I inherited a Stihl 029 16" chainsaw when my son transfered to the "city up on the hill." We have 4 or 5 oak trees that are shading our garden. A couple of them are more than 2' in diameter. The 16" is not working properly and I think it is too small? I am thinking of hiring one of those guys who come around every so often and "do you have any trees/limbs that need cutting" to put the trees on the ground and I will work them up. Not going to pay thousands of $$$ for something I can do myself cheaper ... even buying a new saw will save money.
1. A Stihl would have the advantage of being a quality product (I think?) and I would know the location of the repair shop. But, I think it will be more expensive because only their repair shops sell them?
2. You guys have any recommendation? What to avoid? Brands to consider? Size of blade needed? Words of wisdom? Yeah, I could choose the "Gaz" option but this in not a poll, so ...
Thanks in advance!
I have a Husqvarna Rancher 460. It'll cut through just about anything. [Reply]
I went through most of my adult life with a Commercial Toro 5000 weedeater and a Deutz-Allis L+G tractor. When I bought a Still 045 super 26" used at a sale for doing firewood, I got hooked on Stihl. That old saw blasts through big logs without breathing hard. I have since bought a saw that I think maybe the same as yours. 55cc? Mine will take a 20" blade, yours?.
I now have a back pack blower and Kombi kit head with several attachments.
The one thing I will tell you is to get some Blaster small engine tune up and follow directions. I use it on everything. I think you pull the plug and add to fuel and spray inside the carb. I just pull the plug, and add some FI cleaner into my gas. Use this anytime it has sat for a prolonged time (never store without running dry) and do not keep ethanol gas for more than 30 days. Always use Stihl oils...
Find someone who does trees for a living to find out who sells aggressive chains for pro use. (I did this with a rental store that had lots of tree guys for customers) Buy at least 3 bad ass chains and get your old ones sharpened as spares. Buy ear and face protection.
Good luck, Shihl's shit is expensive and dealers don't like Amazon selling their stuff so some dealers can be asses when you test the price water.. Good luck on finding a dealer who takes care of you as they make their $$$$ on service now because they don't make it in sales anymore.
It has been a while since I did my chains, the rules may have changed but I think what I had was called a "Full Semi" type cutter. Cuts really well in Oak, dulled kinda quick in Cedar and best to pay to have machine sharpened but my old neighbor had a Timberline chainsaw sharpener and it did a great job of fast accurate cuts and saved chain life.
The saw, 55cc, is a little large for climbing so you might want to consider a climbing saw. I had 12 red and white oaks and a variety of misc stuff along with wild ceders on the edges of the pasture fences. I used my cordless reciprocating with a bad ass blade until my neighbor offered a 12" Homelight that due to size and the fact that it had 2 triggers made clearing the saplings a breeze. I used it a lot. If you're going to buy something to go with the Stihl 028 find something like this.
You know what they say: " Buy the best and only cry once."
Originally Posted by Manila-Chief:
Ok ... I know this is a shot in the dark ... but this is a handyman thread, right, ... and we do have some very wise guys on here and yeah, I know, along with some "wise ackers."
Chainsaw question:
I inherited a Stihl 029 16" chainsaw when my son transfered to the "city up on the hill." We have 4 or 5 oak trees that are shading our garden. A couple of them are more than 2' in diameter. The 16" is not working properly and I think it is too small? I am thinking of hiring one of those guys who come around every so often and "do you have any trees/limbs that need cutting" to put the trees on the ground and I will work them up. Not going to pay thousands of $$$ for something I can do myself cheaper ... even buying a new saw will save money.
1. A Stihl would have the advantage of being a quality product (I think?) and I would know the location of the repair shop. But, I think it will be more expensive because only their repair shops sell them?
2. You guys have any recommendation? What to avoid? Brands to consider? Size of blade needed? Words of wisdom? Yeah, I could choose the "Gaz" option but this in not a poll, so ...
It has been my experience that as long as the saw is mechanically OK, damn near any chainsaw works great if it has a sharp blade and you cut straight with it.
Damn near any chainsaw won't cut shit if the blade is garbage or you get cockeyed.
I've had a 14-inch Poulan for about 5 years now. Haven't had any problems with it, but then again I don't use it all that often. if you're going to use it on a regular basis I would definitely stick with the stihl [Reply]
