I didn't see any specific thread or discussion within this thread about DIY deck building, and I was wondering if anyone recalls some good info here in CP on that subject that I might be able to do another search for.

I talked to a contractor over the summer about doing the work, but he unfortunately never got back to us (I know, should have contacted Phil instead), but in the mean time I have done enough research that I think I could manage it as a DIY project.

The deck will be 28' wide from the main story of our walkout basement and 16' out from the house. Most of the deck will be about 10' off the ground, and I was wanting to try to keep the row of posts down to one instead of two, and was trying to figure out if a 14' span and 2' cantilever would be ok, as most of the online design tools I have found keep wanting to add a second beam into it at about 8' and put the other beam out on the edge.

I want to use composite decking, and a calculator I found said 2x10 joists would be needed for the 14' span. I wanted to try to make sure my ducks were in a row before I talk to a lumberyard to push things further, which it sounded like would be the place to start, so that I can take what I get there to the HOA for approval, and from there to get the permit.
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To the short of your question, if you frame it with 2x10 SYP joists @ 16"OC according to my span tables you can span up to 16'6" (not that I'd ever got to the max, as it will feel spongy).

Given that, you will need a sizable beam to support that large of a deck and some sizable posts. There are several free online deck design tools available that can assist with that.

I am fairly comfortable with carpentry and construction, but even I'd sub out an elevated deck. I've built several decks on or above grade.
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Because of the difficulty of heaving up the ledger (and attaching) and beams I assume?

One side of the deck will be less of a height, as it will be on the back side of a small retaining wall, but that is one of the main concerns I had as well. I can work from the ground on that higher ground side, but the rest would be from step ladders.

For the span, I was going to add a line of blocking to help with the sponginess, but don't know if the whole thing will be a bit bouncy or not for a 14' span.

For posts, I was going to use 5 6x6's and a double 2x12 for the beam sitting on them in a notch.
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I had also thought about trying to get a contractor that would do the frame only, and then take care of all the decking and railings myself.
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I dunno if it would help you, but theres products you can get that would allow you do to most of the work UNDER the deck, and with the added benefit of longer lasting decking because youre not punching a bunch of holes through the decking.
More rigidity as well...might add a little to the cost /labor but maybe somethign to look into

see here:





(its a lot more work probably but you could do some from under...i guess its probably not worth it unless its a really high end wood maybe)
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You're probably on the right track, though I might prefer an engineered beam for aesthetics.

Mostly, just the time, hassles, and danger of elevated decks. Imagine down the road you throw a party and have 50 people on the deck. Do you trust your knowledge to do it right?? It's one think to have a deck collapse 3 feet, but that far is a different ballgame.
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We used that on my father in laws ipe deck because that damn ipe is so dense it would eat a screw gun alive. You'd spend a week pre-drilling and driving holes.

They work well.
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Yeah. Would use a hidden deck fastening system, looking at the timber tech ones so far though. Done from above, but same idea
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I am assuming the permit and inspections would help keep me from anything that wouldn't be up to par for what is needed.
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not necessarily. they will look for code violations, but don't review engineering.
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Any advice on dust collection?

I'm building a 2-stage system by converting a single-stager using a chip collector (Super Dust Deputy) that I'll install in-line. I got one of the newer Nano cartridge filters from Wynn Environmental that I'll use to replace the on the collector itself to increase airflow exponentially.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to run 4'' PVC from each tool up to the ceiling then run it across to a couple of secondary lines that will feed into a 6'' main trunk. If I put blast gates at each tool, I should be able to ensure that the full force of the collector is being thrown at whatever individual tool I'm using.

Anyone have any experience building these guys?
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Well I have a finished product now after not getting to work on it for awhile:



I'm actually pretty damn proud of that thing. Built it all the way from scratch; has four drawers in it with nice solid joints that I could stand and jump in without blowing the bottom out. The doors on the left and right have the soft close hinges and I learned to do the European cup hinges so they're hidden. It's mirrored on the back side (though I'm going to take the drawers out of the center at some point on the backside and build an insulated air compressor section then run airline up to the ceiling so I have constant air I can just reach up and grab).

I learned a lot and it's a hell of a table. Got some Rockler heavy duty lifters so it's perfectly aligned with the saw for a smooth out-feed. Should be an awfully nice setup.
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So interesting note; if you look at the second picture in my quoted post above you can see in the back left the single-stage dust collector I had. Well I took it apart and re-engineered it a bit. I added a Wyn Environmental nano filter (amazing airflow) and a dust deputy to create a 2-stage filter. Then I mounted it to the wall to save space and ran ductwork that I can splice into and drop lines wherever I need. The end result:





Works like a dream. I can put sawdust on my zero clearance insert for the saw and it just sucks it right off the top. 95% of it falls into the receptacle below with the cyclone pulling the real small stuff up into the cartridge. By making it 2-stage, most of the dust stays out of the cartridge so my airflow and static pressure stay at/near peak.

By the time I get the shop where I want it I'll probably be burnt out on building shit anymore....
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Getting this to the front page. I have a question about replacing one of our light switches to a timer switch.

Post coming soon.
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Ok, here's the deal. I want to put a programmable timer switch for the first switch in the picture below. The first switch in this pictures turns the outside garage lights on and off. I would like to have this a programmable switch for security and safety purposes such as going on at dark every night and shutting off at say 10 pm. Coming back on at say 5 a.m. before I leave for work and off at daylight. Adds a bit of security and makes it look like we are home since we have blackout screens on the front windows and even with lights on inside, the house sometimes looks empty.

Am I able to simply take the programmable switch in the link below and easily connect it to the first switch? I don't really know much about electric work but we changed a switch from a regular one to a dimmer switch once and that was super easy.




AMAZON switch below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOZHXY..._t1_B004SOZHR0
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