Others mentioned I should start this thread in my other thread. And while I won't have the new car for a while, I'd like to hear some thoughts and recommendations so I can have most of it on hand before the car shows up. My other thread had a lot of great posts in it and you guys have been a big help.
While black cars looks great clean, keeping it relatively clean in Phoenix might be the death of me. But I'll sure as shit give it my best shot.
I actually like cleaning and waxing our current cars but it's not like I am being meticulous about it. I've never had a car with rims either and I know those can get dirty quick. I've never owned a dark colored car and I've never had a car with leather. I plan to take really good care of this car and would like some tips on doing so. But I'm just a fucking n00b.
I'll throw some links out from Amazon as I mention things.
Some mention that after washing you should use a paint cleanser before waxing. But wondering if washing then clay baring is sufficient prior to wax?
I've seen this P21S Paintwork Cleanser mentioned on a few reads. Looks like good use for water spots and swirls prior to waxing if needed. Not sure if you would do entire car first or just use it for bad spots before waxing?
Also, a company called Zaino has great reviews and recommendations. They have a package that looks like it includes all products I'd need together including wash, polish, wax, leather and tire care.
Originally Posted by Miles:
I tried out that Worx blower last weekend. Not perfect but gets it most of the way there and helps with the areas that annoyingly retain water and keep dripping.
Yeah I'd PM'd you - good to know - not hundreds of dollars -should mostly do the trick. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Simply Red:
anybody - use 3" backing plates/pads for paint correction on a full sized DA?
I have and works fine. Found a 3” plate did exactly what I wanted it for - smaller pannnels or uneven areas and also focus the cutting power. Only note is it will generate more spin with smaller backing plate so may have to bump setting down a little or cintrifical force can get a little out of hand. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Miles:
I have and works fine. Found a 3” plate did exactly what I wanted it for - smaller pannnels or uneven areas and also focus the cutting power. Only note is it will generate more spin with smaller backing plate so may have to bump setting down a little or cintrifical force can get a little out of hand.
about what I figured - do you recall which plate you bought? [Reply]
Originally Posted by Miles:
Also seems you want to get the plate a little smaller than the pads you’re using to give protection around the edges.
yeah - not a lot of edges I'm working that size in - just around the rear and the A-Pillar - but will stay slow speed and finesse - i think I've got it - if there are any doubts - I'll not follow through w/ the job - I really think I'll be okay w/ what little i have left. :-)
Also - I'll tape it off and avoid the taped areas [Reply]
Originally Posted by Simply Red:
I didn't want to buy a 3" DA just yet. They're over $100 - so - will wait on that
Yeah would be nice to have the smaller DA. I’ve used one before and easier to work with but also couldn’t justify the cost for light use. The smaller plate seemed a reasonable compromise. [Reply]
Also for more expensive purchases or larger order auto geek/Autopia are always running promo coupons if you sign up for their emails. The good ones are 20-25% off and they can be combined with other sales they run like various kits for more discount. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Miles:
Also for more expensive purchases or larger order auto geek/Autopia are always running promo coupons if you sign up for their emails. The good ones are 20-25% off and they can be combined with other sales they run like various kits for more discount.
nice, thanks. Yeah I think you nailed it w/ more passes at minimal speed - since clearly the throw will be vaster due to the decreased plate/pad. [Reply]
