Originally Posted by Iowanian:
Are there any ez go golf cart repairmen in the house?
I have a mid 2000's gas golf cart. Lately, when I stop and even turn the key off it just keeps turning over. Ideas on what is wrong would be appreciated. I know nothing about them.
Sounds like a bad ignition switch completing the circuit, the electrical charge is jumping the contact. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Rooster:
Has anyone put new windows on your house? I'm paying to have it done by the way. While I do consider myself 'handy' the idea of me being responsible for a sizeable hole in my house is not appealing.
I guess my real question is feedback on vinyl vs composite vs figerglass window framing. Any horror stories or stories of victory out there between the types?
Originally Posted by Iowanian:
Are there any ez go golf cart repairmen in the house?
I have a mid 2000's gas golf cart. Lately, when I stop and even turn the key off it just keeps turning over. Ideas on what is wrong would be appreciated. I know nothing about them.
To much advance in timing will cause that. It's running to hot and continues to combust for a few seconds. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Dave Lane:
To much advance in timing will cause that. It's running to hot and continues to combust for a few seconds.
First and foremost, does it continue idling as if the key were still in the on position, or does it slowly chuff itself to sleep? If it's the former, your ignition module, specifically the kill switch, may have a short or disconnect.
If it's the latter, yeah, either pre-ignition or dieseling. The former [pre-ignition] concerns your timing or distributor points. The latter [dieseling] concerns either spark plug gap, or a buildup in the combustion chamber that heats up and acts as a diesel 'glow plug,' igniting the fuel through heat instead of electrical arc.
After the post run-on ignition off, and a period of cooling, is it difficult to start cold? If so that would be the strongest suggestion that your spark plugs are incorrectly gapped for the particular engine.
Depending on funds, I'd start with plugs by either [cheaply] taking the the ignition end to the wire wheel [mind the ceramic] and then gap them to specs, or [$baller$] new spec-ed plugs and wires.
In conjunction with, or immediately following, step one check out the vacuum connections. It could be that your vacuum advance is sticking open.
If that does nothing, track down a repair [not owners] manual and check the specs on the distributor.
Failing that, then you might have to pull the head and clean up the chambers. Don't know how pricey that is for a motor of that size/application, but expect at least a new head gasket, and at least use if not outright purchase of a torque wrench to re-install the head to the block within specs.
If you can easily track down a repair manual, or even better a specialized EZGO enthusiast forum, you may come across some solutions/communal wisdom that saves you a lot of trouble in the long run.
If none of this helps, the more specifics you can provide, the more help can be offered. This includes both model info [motor size, type, year, manufacturer, etc.] and symptom info [power lag, difficult starts, battery buildup, charging problems, fluid leakage, etc.] [Reply]
When I hit the brake and turn off the key it keeps "chuffing" as you say, similar to the first time I try to start it before I choke it to get it started. It's not running per se, it acts like it's trying to start and then eventually quits after a minute or two.
It is definitely starting a little harder cold and requires the choke to start.
It sounds like maybe it's as simple as trying spark plugs? I'll start with that and clean the connections I can and see what happens for starters.
Thanks BL.
Originally Posted by Baby Lee:
First and foremost, does it continue idling as if the key were still in the on position, or does it slowly chuff itself to sleep? If it's the former, your ignition module, specifically the kill switch, may have a short or disconnect.
If it's the latter, yeah, either pre-ignition or dieseling. The former [pre-ignition] concerns your timing or distributor points. The latter [dieseling] concerns either spark plug gap, or a buildup in the combustion chamber that heats up and acts as a diesel 'glow plug,' igniting the fuel through heat instead of electrical arc.
After the post run-on ignition off, and a period of cooling, is it difficult to start cold? If so that would be the strongest suggestion that your spark plugs are incorrectly gapped for the particular engine.
Depending on funds, I'd start with plugs by either [cheaply] taking the the ignition end to the wire wheel [mind the ceramic] and then gap them to specs, or [$baller$] new spec-ed plugs and wires.
In conjunction with, or immediately following, step one check out the vacuum connections. It could be that your vacuum advance is sticking open.
If that does nothing, track down a repair [not owners] manual and check the specs on the distributor.
Failing that, then you might have to pull the head and clean up the chambers. Don't know how pricey that is for a motor of that size/application, but expect at least a new head gasket, and at least use if not outright purchase of a torque wrench to re-install the head to the block within specs.
If you can easily track down a repair manual, or even better a specialized EZGO enthusiast forum, you may come across some solutions/communal wisdom that saves you a lot of trouble in the long run.
If none of this helps, the more specifics you can provide, the more help can be offered. This includes both model info [motor size, type, year, manufacturer, etc.] and symptom info [power lag, difficult starts, battery buildup, charging problems, fluid leakage, etc.]
Originally Posted by beach tribe:
My pops taught me how to do this when I was young, and I haven't cursed a tangled cord since.
Now you can be the envy of those who can't figure out what exactly you just did.
I was working on a huge construction site years ago and was leaving the job. Framers had one of those laying across the road. Drove on out and noticed people looking and finally one pointed to back of truck. That pretty little loop jumped onto the trailer hitch and it was trashed. [Reply]
I doubt anybody knows anything about this, but anyway,
I just bought an under sink water filter. It's a whirlpool, with 3 filters on it. Got it all installed and turned on the little faucet that came with it, and the water just trickles out. I have good pressure going into the filters, but next to nothing coming out. Of course the help line is m-f until 6, so I will have to wait until monday to call them.
the good news is, my water doesn't taste like dirt anymore. The bad news is it takes 3 minutes to fill a glass.
any experiences with this? Posted via Mobile Device [Reply]
No experience but I would start with re-reading the directions, then take it back apart and see if you missed anything? Sounds like something is backward. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Brock:
I doubt anybody knows anything about this, but anyway,
I just bought an under sink water filter. It's a whirlpool, with 3 filters on it. Got it all installed and turned on the little faucet that came with it, and the water just trickles out. I have good pressure going into the filters, but next to nothing coming out. Of course the help line is m-f until 6, so I will have to wait until monday to call them.
the good news is, my water doesn't taste like dirt anymore. The bad news is it takes 3 minutes to fill a glass.
any experiences with this? Posted via Mobile Device
I have a GE that does the same thing. It came with the house so I've never taken the time to fuck with it.